1998 Honda Civic EX Sedan 5-Speed
Viper 5002 alarm system

I got nailed at another forum for starting multiple threads on the same alarm install...I did the same here, I apologize.

I just bought my 98 civic, during the last 2 weeks, while I have been getting ready for the install, rear window got busted, GPS taken from glove box...long story short...I live in a VERY bad area in California, no garage, and I need this thing in place ASAP.

5thgensi: Thank you for offering to help on the "siren/horn relay" setup. Your explanation was over my head. If you feel I could benefit from it, would you mind very my elaborating more on your explanation. Either way I appreciate your offer.

Here is what I have so far. I placed ?? marks on pins I'm not sure about, others I filled in with info I received from here and another forum. If anyone can recommend any changes, or help with the areas not filled in, I sincerely would appreciate it.

This is what I have so far:

520T Battery Backup Module
RED - (15A fuse 12” from power source) to 12V Constant [18 gauge wire]
GRAY (+) 12V Output - to Viper (+) 12V Constant
BLACK - GROUND to Chassis
BLUE (-) Output to Control Module - tap H2/2 GREY (-) Hood Pin Input, Zone 6 (22 gauge)


H1 Harness
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200 mA Channel 2 Output
H1/2 RED (+) Constant 12V Power Input (15A fused)
H1/3 BROWN (+) Siren Output
H1/4 YELLOW (+) Switched Ignition Input, Zone 5
H1/5 BLACK (-) Chassis Ground Input
H1/6 VIOLET (+) Door Trigger Input, Zone 3
H1/7 BLUE (-) Instant Trigger Input (trunk input/shunt), Zone 1
H1/8 GREEN (-) Door Trigger Input, Zone 3
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE Domelight Supervision Relay Output #30
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) 200 mA Channel 3 Programmable Output
H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) Selectable Light Flash Output
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500 mA Ground-When-Armed Output

H1/1 - ??
H1/2 - to 520T GRAY (15A fuse on Viper side)
H1/3 - to 2 sirens split wires, and place a 1A fuse on the one under hood to protect from grounding.
H1/4 - tap into Ignition BLACK/YELLOW (ignition switch harness)
H1/5 - GROUND
H1/6 - NOT USED
H1/7 - to Trunk BLUE/BLACK
H1/8 - JOIN with H1/9 to (door trigger = light green/red (-)
H1/9 - JOIN with H1/8 to (door trigger = light green/red (-)
H1/10 - NOT USED
H1/11 - ??
H1/12 - ??


H2 Harness
H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) Second Unlock
H2/2 GREY (-) Hood Pin Input, Zone 6 (22 gauge)
H2/3 ORANGE/BLACK Retained Accessory Output
H2/4 GREY/BLACK (-) Channel 6 Output
H2/5 WHITE/BLACK (-) Channel 5 Output
H2/6 VIOLET/BLACK (-) Channel 4 Output
H2/7 LIGHT BROWN (-) Horn Honk Output
H2/8 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) Factory Disarm Output

H2/1 ??
H2/2 to hood pin (18 gauge wire) [diode isolate “hood pin on chassis and mercury switch on hood bottom] Tie both non striped ends together, the other 2 each go to the 2 sensors. ??]
H2/3 ??
H2/4
H2/5 ??
H2/6 ??
H2/7 to Horn BLUE/GRAY (does this causes the horn to go off if alarm is triggered?) ??
H2/8 ??


H3 Harness
H3/A BLACK/WHITE DomeLight Supervision relay Input #87
H3/B WHITE/BLACK Lock #87a Normally Closed
H3/C GREEN/BLACK Lock #30 Common (Output)
H3/D VIOLET/BLACK* Lock #87 Normally Open (Input)
H3/E BROWN/BLACK Unlock #87a Normally Closed
H3/F BLUE/BLACK Unlock #30 Common (Output)
H3/G VIOLET* Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input)

H3/A - GROUND
H3/B - NOT USED
H3/C - to neg. output door lock = green/white (-)
H3/D - GROUND
H3/E - NOT USED
H3/F - to neg. output door unlock = green/orange (-)
H3/G - GROUND


Sensor 2
507T Audio sensor


Sensor 3
507M Tilt Sensor


Immobilizer
(Normally Closed)
87a GREEN/BLACK to Starter side (power side)
-cut Starter BLACK/WHITE (ignition switch harness)
30 GREEN/WHITE to ignition side (load side of wire)

No help on the install from me, but I doubt if anyone here cares if you make a new thread....and if they do, they'll get over it.

Hope you can get your install finished before anything seriously bad happens.

I'm sure Lynn (5thgensi) or alan (VegaS10) will be on later today and hopefully give you some answers.

Re: Viper 5002 - protect internal piezo’s??

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

run the main siren straight off the brown siren output wire. then program the horn output wire to constant and use it to trigger a relay to run all the extra sirens you want. power the relay off of 12v before the backup battery. then if you lose main power the backup only feeds the main siren not all the add ons. also make sure your using neg. park light output and a relay as the backup isnt supposed to flash the lights either. you can pm me any questions back on carolina hondas. (5thgensi)
__________________
VIPER ALARM INSTALLS IN RALEIGH NC!
Dont be a victim!
Get a professional stealth install today, so you can sleep easy tonight.

basically keep your h1/3 output the way you have it.
then take your h2/7 (set it to constant output in the menu) connect it to a relay term 85, +12v to term 86 and 87 ,and then connect term 30 to all the extra sirens you want. that way you can have all the sirens you want unless main power is cut. then if its dependent on the backup battery it only has to run the 2 sirens on the main output. also set your h1/11 light output to neg and connect to relay term 85, +12v to term 86 and 87, and term 30 to your park light wire or tab on the front of the fusebox. the internal +12v light output relay isnt supposed to be used in conjuction with a backup battery.

h1 harness is correct 1, 12 arent needed. 1 is for trunk pop, you can add an actuator and relay to do so if you want. 12 is for kill relays, window/sunroof mod., led scanners, piggyback voice modules, etc.

h2/1,3456,8 arent needed. you dont need a mercury switch at all. just a hood pin, keep it wd40'd every few months. i told you what delayed acc. is for in another thread, and explained one option for your horn output earlier.

h3 harness is correct.

immobilizer is fine, once you cut the starter wire you can connect the imm. wires either direction.

also you can use a bitwriter to tell the 5002 what sensors are plugged into the sensor ports so that the correct icons show up on the remote screen when being triggered.

i hope i covered everything and didnt miscommunicate anything.

Thank you Tweeter...wonderful and helpful people here!!

PERFECT Lynn, no miscommunication at all, thanks so much. You are one incredible person, to help me out as much as you did.

If you can do this for a total stranger, I can only imagine what you do for your friends!!!

5th gen is right. Realistically you will only end up using maybe 30-40% percent of the total wires you start with. Just make sure you don't tap fuses, thats not the best way to go about it, if you are unsure how to tap wires just google it, that is the best method to tapping into a circuit before soldering.Mercury switch definitely isn't needed for you application unless you have some nice wheels which you are worried about getting jacked. If that is the case get a digital tilt sensor, it resets itself everytime the car is armed so even if you are parked on an incline it will be able to tell the alarm whats going on, unlike a mercury sensor which would be faulted on an incline. If you have any questions you can e-mail me if you would like, I do these things every day as I am an MECP cert installer.

no problem, if you need anything else ask.

Additional question:

I would like the parking lights to flash when alarm is triggered. Is this correct?

H1/11 – tap into Parking Lights (+) RED/Black (drivers door sill)

I should set H1/11 to (-)? Is this done with a Bitwriter?

Thank you.

Set the output to (+).

You can get that red/black wire under the dash at the fuse panel as well.

__________________
Over 25 satisifed CH member's cars secured. Want to be one?