I've been around here for awhile and have never seen this topic covered. Maybe because people are paranoid, unsure, or just uncertain how to do it. Since I had a spare alarm laying around, and a spare hatchback, I figured I'd throw it in and take some pics. Some folks may have different ways of doing these, but, feel free to use this as a guide line. Please don't get all negative on this thread. If you have anything negative to say, please keep it to yourself, as this thread is to help and inform others. Also, please do not ask me a bunch of alarm questions, I'm not an expert by any means and I do not want to mislead anyone.

To start:



It's always nice to clean the area you're working in. So, a quick vacuum is in order.




The alarm is a Python 460HP. Basic alarm/keyless entry and starter kill. The blue box next to it is the lock actuator, which will be installed later.



Take the underdash down to find the wires. Noting the factory loom and direction.







Unplug the main harnesses and let them hang.



Cut and strip the starter wire.



Take the cluster cover off, since thats where the alarm brain is going in this car.



Finding the parking light wire.



Door trigger wire.

It's best to find all your wires first. This way you can plot and plan your route for the alarm wires, and there will be no surprises along the way.



Alarm brain out the box.



Plug up all the harnesses. This is not as intimidating as it looks.



Cut all the wires off the alarm that won't be used. This cuts down on ALOT of extra clutter. On this alarm, there will only be 9 wires used.

+12 volts
ignition
starter kill
door sense
hatch sense
siren
ground
lock
unlock



Start bundling similar wires.



Loom wires to keep a factory-ish look.



I cut this small brace to run wires through.



Put the alarm behind the cluster.



Brain behind cluster.



Wires pulled down and ready to go.



Door trigger and antenna coming out from the door jamb.



Alarm ground. This must be nice and snug. If this comes loose, there will be problems.



Everything attatched and tied back up (I think)...



Hole drilled for siren.



Alarm brain tucked for good.



Putting the dash back together.



LED and programming switch mounted.



Antenna mounted inside windsheild.



Siren mounted.

It's always important to check everything before you reassemble. Make sure the shock sensor works good and wires are tied properly. By mounting the brain behind the cluster, it makes it invisible to see from under the dash, and is protected by steel. If you were to look under this dash, NOTHING looks out of place.

This is a very basic alarm install and with relays and extra sirens, there are tons of additional possibilities. I'll put a video up later of my hatch and truck alarms going off to show what else can be done.

Due to time, I'll be installing the door lock actuautor later and posting pics as well.

There are alot of alarm myths out there. Pretty much all of them are wrong, or just passed down from years of being circulated. When purchasing an alarm, make sure you get a quality one with good quality support and a lifetime warranty. Make sure you go to a reputable shop to get it done as well. Ask how the connections are made and try and speak to the installer doing the job.

I install fvor a living, but don't do many alarms. I've been doing this for over 12 years professionaly and avoid alarms like th plague. But, even I can do an old civic. The ef's are very simple and a no-brainer since they are so simple. I do all the EF's when they coe in, mainly cause I have a special place in my heart for them...lol..

But seriously, if you do the alarm yourself, take your time. Plan everything out ahead of time, and if you get in over your head: Stop and ask someone a question. Electronics can be pretty hard to troubleshoot. Make sure your connections are solid and everything is secure. As long as that's done, you're pretty much set.



Pull the door panel off.



Actuator and hardware. Note how small it is....



Put the wires in a vise if possible, or have someone hold them still.






Put the wires in a drill and spin. This twists the wires and keeps them together. Saves on tape as well.

Connect the butt connectors on the actuator.





Mount the actuator. Make sure the actuator rod is parallel to the lock rod. Try and keep this as straight as possible and has no binds in it.



This is what it should look like when done and mounted.



I use a drill battery to check and confirm it works and nothing binds.









Run the wire in the grommet, split loom it, run into the car and secure it so it does'nt get caught in any hinges.



Remount the door panel and hook up the wies to the alarm.

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=4caw4lj


This is what the alarm sounds like when triggered. The parking lights flash and the siren goes off. This is the basic setup that most people have. It may not keep someone out of your car, but, most theives will strike a car without an alarm, just to avoid the attention. I have the shock sensor set low to prevet false alarms.

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=40cnads

Since I treasure my eg hatch alot more, there is alot more done to it. Of course the starter kill, but I also added a fuel cut off, ecu cut off and a distributor cut off. So, when the alarm is triggered, it cuts power to the fuel pump, ecu AND the dizzy. Hot wire it all you want, but there is no way it will start. As you can see, the headlights flash, the horn honks and the siren goes off. There are also piezo sirens (very tiny and high pitched) INSIDE the car. If you are inside the car when it goes ff, it'll drive ya crazy. I park this thing in my garage at night and it sits in front of me all day (on nice days), so, it's well secured.

It is the exact same model alarm in both hatches. Just alot more work and relays in the grey one.

Enjoy.

good write up :bandit:

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Good stuff, you may want to hook up the hatch trigger for added protection. Attach the blue wire on the python brain (negative(-) instant trigger) to the green/black low in the drivers kick panel. Use a meter or test light to verifiy the proper wire.

Also I wouldn't really show where I disabled the start circuit at...alot of smart thieves out there today.

__________________
'91 Civic Wagon ~~ '02 Mazda Protege5
. . . . . . There be wagons here . . . . . . .

~~~ 88 CRX HF~~~
. . . .Death trap. . . .

Excelling to the upper echelon of mediocrity

Sweet write up man! I know that takes a hell of a long time to do.

__________________
-FG2
-03 Mini Viper-SOLD
-99 SI SOLD-
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Hatch trigger was hooked up, it's written down, I just did'nt show it.

The wires are soldered, taped, wire tied and bundled. It's gonna take an ass load of work to even bother trying to take a bone stock 90 civic. The main function of this alarm is to make a small mount of noise and add a power lock to my drver door.

The EG hatch is pretty much theft proof. It will require a tow-truck to take that one.

I meant no offence buddy, I install for a living and have been doing it for 5 years myself. I've been driving EF's since I was in highschool, so it's nice to see a good write-up on how to keep one safe. Good choice on the DEI product, thats what I run on everything I own, even my bike(which you'll need a tow truck to get as well ). can't get any better than the DEI.

__________________
'91 Civic Wagon ~~ '02 Mazda Protege5
. . . . . . There be wagons here . . . . . . .

~~~ 88 CRX HF~~~
. . . .Death trap. . . .

Excelling to the upper echelon of mediocrity

Definitly no hard feelings. I HATE alarms. I've been installing professionaly since I was 20 (am now 32). I avoid alarms like the plague...lol. But, since EF's are so simple, I figured I could tackle this one. We have 3 alarm guys at our shop, and it's pretty much ALL they do. So, I've been picking up some of their good habits and watching them lately. They laughed when I told them how long it took to do this. But hey, I did it, and I'm proud.

Our alarm guys have alarms on their bikes as well. Those guys take the whole damn bike apart it seems to do that. I give them props whenever I see them doing it. We do alot of bikes in our area due to the high theft rate on them here.

you did a great job, ive been installing for 12-13 years now, and what you did is excellent. the only thing diff. i would have done was put a grommet in the firewall where you pulled your siren wires through. but other than that you did a great job. 2 thumbs up from me.

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Tony's Paint & Body
1487 NC 55 W, Coats NC, 27521, I-CAR, SEM, PPG, MECP

I would have done a grommet for the siren wire but, I did this at home and not the shop. The house is grommet-less. Once we slow back down a bit at the shop, I'll probably throw one on there.

Thanks for the comments.

is this the one that tells you your car is bein broken into