First off, before anyone jumps on my case, this is being done on MY car. Not a customers or fellow employees. I have enough confidence in this install I can show everything. I am doing this to show what a high end installation looks like and accomplishes. This is by NO MEANS a typical install. CC or BB would not do this do to time constraints. However, some smaller specialty shops may do it, and there are a few installers on this site that would do it (myself included).

I beg, PLEASE keep the trash talking off this thread. If you do have anything negative to say, please pm me. I will adress your concerns promptly. Like I said, this is to help others. Thanks in advance for your cooperation.

On with the show:

This is going to be somewhat of a build thread. I am going to do this in small sections to show you how a very solid install is done. Currently I am waiting for the back-up battery and tilt sensor to arrive. I have the alarm and relays, so, I went ahead and prepped the relays. I am waiting for the other pieces before I prep the rest. In this part, I am going to explain what each relay does and how it will work on the car.

First of all, here are the relays prepped:



Note the pen in the background for reference.

A relay is necessary for all the functions they will be doing. These are standard 30 amp relays that are available at most shops. A relay is a hig-current switch. The 2 on the left are the "kill" relays. One will disable the ecu (or distributor, have'nt decided yet) while the other will disable the fuel pump. These only "kill" if the alarm is triggered, all other times they let the current flow uninterrupted.

The other 2 relays have other purposes. One will honk the horn when the alarm is triggered, and the other will ccontrol the headlights.

I used a soldering iron to mark each relay. This will help during installtion and if I have to troubleshoot something later on down the road.

Example:



You can do a million things with relays. If it is on a switch, you can control it. They make sunroof modules, window modules, trunk releases, etc. All of these are controlled by relays.

If you ever wondered what an alarm looks like fresh out the box, here's a glimpse:



I'll be using about a third of all this wiring, and the rest will be removed and cleaned up.

Like I said, I'm at a standstill right now while awaiting the other parts. Once they arrive (in the next day or 2) this thread will move very quickly. I will be taking several pics and try to explain everything as well as I can.

A quick rundown of what THIS install is going to do:

When the "armed" button is pressed:

-Parking lights will flash once
-Led will come on
-System will arm
-Horn will gently honk (I may not use the Viper siren)

When the "disarm" button is pressed:

-Parking lights flash twice
-Headlights will come on for 30 seconds
-Led will turn off
-Horn will gently honk twice

When the alarm is triggered

-Parking lights flash
-Headlights flash
-Horn honks
-Ecu is disabled
-Fuel pump is disabled
-Starter is disabled
-Keypad is alerted in a one mile range

It basically opens the gates of hell. The only way this will be moved is via towtruck.

To add:

There will be a tilt sensor. If the vehicle is moved more than 3 degrees, the alarm is triggered. This includes towing, jacking up of the car at any side, lifting etc.

There is a backup battery as well. If the battery under the hood is removed or cut, the backup battery will take over and let the alarm continue to protect the vehicle.

There is also a hoodpin, so, once the hood is popped, the alarm is going to trigger.

Since there are soooo many relays and extra parts, this alarm will NOT be under the dash. I will show more of this during the install. Once again, please keep the negativity out of this thread, as it is my personal vehicle and I am willing to show this for others and to help the community.

Stay tuned, as there will be alot of information in this thread.

I've copied and pasted this on several other forums I visit and have recieved many questions regarding alarms. Let me answer some and dispel some myths.

1. All a theif has to do is pop the hood and cut the siren wire to kill the alarm.

Wrong. By cutting the siren, the noise will stop, but the alarm will continue to protect the vehicle. If the siren wire is grounded out, the circuit may be damaged on the brain, but the alarm will continue to function.

2. Taking a car battery to the car and shorting it out will kill the alarm.

Wrong. It would be a HUGE fireworks show, but 99% of the time, the alarm would simply blow a fuse. Along with doing so, the electrical system could be damaged. The computers and modules in the car could be heavily damaged. Doing so could possibly make the vehicle undrivable, and certainly alot more difficult to "hotwire".

3. By knowing what brand alarm is in a car a theif can bypass it.

Wrong. Just think about this.....

4. Alarms are worthless and a kill switch does the same job.

An alarm is only as good as the install. You could have the best alarm made, but if there are poor connections it won't work. Kill switches are good for someone on a budget, but, a $10 kill switch won't alert me a mile away when my hood is popped.

5. Showing this install makes your car an easy target.

Wrong. You may know where everything is on THIS car, and you may even see this car on the street. But, once this install is complete, you will simply not even think about it. There are much easier and more valuable targets.

6. People ignore alarms

True. This is why a 2 way style keypad is being used. I'm using the factory horn because it's louder and more people take notice.

If you have any other questions or if there is ANYTHING else anyone would like to know, please let me know here or via PM. I'll be more than happy to discuss this and help the community out.

Well, the backup battery did not arrive today, but the tilt sensor did. The battery should be here anytime now. Here's what it looks like with a quarter for reference:





It only has 3 wires to hook up.

-Red goes to constant power.

-orange goes to the "ground when armed" output, most of the time this will be orange on the alarm brain as well.

-blue is the trigger output and sends a ground when the vehicle is moved.

It is reccomended that this be installed flat as can be, like on the floorpan of the car.

There is a black looped wire that lets you select 1 or 3 degrees of sensitivity. Cutting this wire will select 3 degrees.

The white wire loop is the time delay before trigger. 10 second is default and cutting it makes it go to 2 minutes. i think I'll leave it at 10 seconds....lol.

Depending on what comes up later today, I may write up the killswitch/defrost button thing I mentioned earlier. Any more questions please feel free to ask!!!

Well, the backup battery finally arrived. So, tonight I unpacked it, took some pics and tommorow night I start the install.





Thats the battery and small module next to a quarter for reference.

It has 4 main wires.

-Red- is the Positive power INPUT. This charges the battery and needs to go to a main power source in the car.

-Black- is the usual ground.

-Blue- goes to the instant trigger on the alarm brain. This will send a negative trigger to the alarm if the main battery is unhooked. This will also trigger the alarm.

-Gray- is the positive OUTPUT. This goes to the main power INPUT on the alarm. It will supply power ONLY to the alarm sytem if the main battery is unhooked.

Like I said, tommorow night I will be removing the old alarm and start prepping this one for install. Stay tuned, alot more to come...

Tonight I'm pulling the old alarm out. I put it in when I first got the car and did it in a hurry, like, maybe an hours worth of work. I cut my finger pretty bad today at work, that explains the tape.

First pic is under the dash. Some of the wires are from the gauge pod on the pillar. I may be removing this as well. Since it's a stock B16, there is'nt much to monitor.



Here is where the old brain sat.



The previous owner had the LED in this knockout panel. I put the current one there and hot glued it in place, so, it looks like I'll be leaving it there. No big deal.



Me holding the old alarm.



And this is where I'll be spending ALOT of time in the coming days....



I'm going to try and get the new alarm seated in the car tonight and once you folks see it, I think you'll be VERY surprised where this is gonna go.

Stay tuned...

Here is the part alot of folks have been waiting for. I'm putting the alarm under the front seat. As you can see, there are alot of parts to this alarm. It would be a huge bundle and mess to try and put this under ANY dash.

I have Corbeau racing seats in the car. I am not using the sliders so the seats are stationary. With this in mind, even if the theif knew the alarm is under the seat, they would have to pull the bolts out to get to it. On a regular sliding seat, ther may be some access, but they would still have to know the location of the brain.

Like I said, the seat DOES NOT slide, so it's a very effective cover for the alarm.

My finger is really bugging me, and I have to take a break so it can heal. Plus, typing sucks...lol.

On with the last batch of pics for the night...









More tommorow folks.

Tonight's updates:

The first thing I did was put the factory harness back to a stock look. I had to reconnect the starter wire and solder that back up. Reloomed the bundle and taped it back up.



Since I'm gonna work with some heavy duty wire, I need a heavy duty soldering iron. I picked this up at Lowe's today. Butane powered and it also can be a torch. Good stuff.



I bundled all the +12 volt wires together and attatched them to 1 8 gauge wire.Since there are so many relays and accesories, I felt this was necessary. This was soldered.



These are all the negative wires. I bundled them together and crimped them as one. The brown and white ones are for the 451M door lock actuator relay. This is a heavy duty relay that powers the door locks.



Here is where I removed the paint and used a star washer to secure the grounds.



I made the connections from the relays to the brain, removed unused wires and began to simplify everything. As you can see, it's alot less intimidating now.



I only had about 30 minutes of work in it tonight, so, not much was done. But, I get out of work early tommorow, so there will be some good progress tommorow.

I did some minor work this morning, not much but it is progress.

I cracked open the factory wire channels.



Connected more wires at the brain. Mainly just relay/alarm and sensor/alarm to simplify more stuff.



Next I started running the alarm wires through the channels.



Tucked and tied the wires more to make it more "professional" and keep everything tidy.



Wires in the channel.



End of channel.



There have been no major steps taken yet, as I really have'nt tapped into the factory wiring yet. That will be tonight.

Thanks.

Update:

First pic is of me connecting the door lock actuator wires. Nothing too special here. The actuator was done previously, and I'm not pulling that door panel off anytime soon. Sorry.



Second is where I mounted the relay pack for the main power wires. The ribbon cable would not reach had I run it in the channeling, so I simply tucked it under.



This is where the wire is for the hatch sense. Not pictured is where I attatched the parking light wire to the hazard switch in the dash.



Wires taped up neatly, trying to keep it clean.



I put the antenna in the rear quarter window. My windsheild is going to be replaced soon and I'll be moving it forward once that is done. In the meantime, it's fine here.



I connected all the power wires into one, and connected the 2 ignition wires together. So, for the main power lines it goes like this:

Red- constant power
Pink- ignition
Green- Key side of the starter
Purple- Starter side of the starter.



I may get some more work done tonight.

Last bit of the night.

I did all the main wiring behind the fuse panel. This makes it more difficult to see and harder for anyone to reach (including myself).

Here is where the horn wire attatches.



Main power attatched.



Wires exposed, attatched, and soldered and taped.







I is tired and my finger is bleeding.....again. =(