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Old 08-17-2013, 01:12 PM
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Default My 99 Coupe SQ Daily Driver Install

Going to start this thread to show progress on my audio install in my 99 ex. I will try and be as thorough as I can. My goal is to have a sound quality oriented setup that will get as loud as I want it to while keeping vibration and road noise to a minimum. Questions or comments, let me know.

First, a rundown of my gear(Ill just post generic pics for now):

Clarion CZ702 head unit - capable of doing 3 way active crossover setup(which I am doing) , usb/ipod connect, pandora(plays without commercials), 5 band eq. This is a great bargain head unit at under $200 for someone wanting to run an active crossover setup. I may end up going to a Pioneer unit if I can find the model I had in my s2k for a reasonable price though.





Pioneer Stage 4 TS-C172PRS components - I came across a good deal (in my opinion) on these and had to give them a try. I have previously used Pioneer TS-C720PRS which sounded amazing. The stage 4 is pioneers reference series so it should impress. They are currently in the mail, but I have a set of 720prs on had to use for mock up since dimensions are the same.





Image Dynamics IDMAX 12d4 v2 - I had a 10" version in my s2000. This sub is an SQ sub but can take upwards of 1200 watts without a hiccup if needed. It will get louder than I will ever need and can keep with anything I throw at it as well as being musical instead of just making noise.





Memphis Audio Big Belle MC1300D - picked this up from Russ(eg9) 75x4 class A/B channels and 400x1 at 4ohm, 600x1 at 2, 1100x1 at 1. Underrated, clean power. I am bridging the 4 front channels to give 225 watts to each stage 4 mid. Sub channel will be giving 600 watts to the ID max





Memphis Audio 16-MC2004 - 50x4 class A/B. Bought this to power the stage 4 tweeters off two of the channels. Got a good deal on it and only needed 2x50 but I will have an additional 2 channels if I decide to go with a 3 way front stage and add a dedicated small midrange driver, plus it matches the big belle.





As for wiring, I am using 4ga oxygen free copper wiring from stinger. Speaker wire will be ofc 14ga. Rcas are stinger that I got from Russ Egn, which are a lot more flexible than the monster cable high end stuff that I had in my s2k.

I have done "big 3" upgraded battery ground, engine ground, and transmission ground with 4ga. Presently I have no dimming playing the sub at levels louder than it needs to be, so I will hold off on an upgraded battery until I see it necessary. I am running some Image Dynamics CTX coaxials in the rear deck with the sub temporarily so I have some tunes lol.

Here is a couple install pics so far:

Shitty stock designed door panel(96-00 is the WORST I have ever seen. My integra, 92 civic, and s2k were nowhere near as bad). I am mocking everything up with my light gray door panels before swapping in my dark grey.




Here is the driver side door panel cut out. I managed to keep 2 of the 3 screws that mount the panel to the sheetmetal. There are two 1/2" mdf rings stacked on one another. I got lucky on that because thats the minimum i need to clear the window track and the maximum room between the sheetmetal and the panel. You can see the blue sharpie outline of what I will need to cut out of the sheetmetal to fit the drivers.




Here is the CLD (constrained layer damping) I have done so far on the doors, and trunk. Despite popular belief, you generally only need 25% coverage to be effective with vibration control. The product I used is Second Skin Damplifier Pro. It is very effective, and not a huge rip off like dynamat. I will be doing other areas later on and may put a few more pieces on the doors at a later time, but this amount has killed the hollow sound of the stock doors. The trunk just needed a few pieces as well. The sound deadener used in this manor is effective and does not add a ton of unnecessary weight. For 25 sq feet Ill be adding about 15lbs.

This is not the only layer to the process though. I will be using a ccf(closed cell foam) to decouple the plastic panels from the sheetmetal to stop them from vibrating as well.

I also will be using MLV (mass loaded vinyl) which is actually the only layer that blocks sound. This is the heaviest layer at about 1lb a square foot, but is also the most effective. More later on the CCF and the MLV.











I will try to keep this updated as best I can. Im sure there will be a couple changes as it progresses. I will show pictures of the trunk set up once it is finished by NVturbo.

Last edited by Casey; 08-17-2013 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:50 PM
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Very nice sir. Makes me want to finish mine.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:11 PM
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Thanks! I will keep this updated as best as possible. next steps for the doors is to get my body guy to help cut the openings for the mids, pull fenders to run 2 sets of wire thru the molex connectors, and cut some aluminum to seal up the holes in the doors for better mid bass response. I used cld on the small holes(that is why there are a few random small pieces on the doors)
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:57 AM
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Need more deading on those doors bro .. not cld tiles need some hush mat I think its called .. honda doors suck ass for sq type stuff .. some of the sticky rope too on the crash bars .. but so far not too shabby .. I thought about the whole active headunit thing but id rather have a quality processor or just use the crossovers on the amps (assuming it has the ones you need) .. but obviously thats just my personal preference and im sure the headunit route works just as good .. but for sure eager to see some more progress ... hoping to start on my truck soon :-)
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Old 08-18-2013, 04:59 AM
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Doors | Sound Deadener Showdown

That stuff lol .. that site sells it too
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:41 AM
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ive already talked to don(that runs that site you posted) and am getting the butyl rope and mlv from him. i am getting the closed cell foam from raamaudio because they have some with sticky backing that will make install much easier.

trust me, ive got a few more steps on the doors
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:18 PM
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Thats whats up .. I wish I could be happy with a single 12 lol .. I dont look forward to deadening the frontier .. the roof needs it bad .. with just one of my 15s or the old type r 12 the roof rattled like no other .. probably gonna cost me close to a grand just to deaden the thing .... havent decided if im gonna do a build log on here or not .. since its not a honda and not many that like audio the way I do here ya know .. but like I said buddy cant wait to see finished product on this.. deff tuned in for updates
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Old 08-18-2013, 02:31 PM
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well i like hearing music more than bass :P. I have it hooked up now at 8ohms (250 watts?) and its pretty stupid loud for that. ill let you hear it. we can hook it up to one of your amps and feed it 1500 for fun
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:34 PM
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did a bit more deadening a couple days ago.

this is just step 1 of 3 for these areas





removed the oem deadener that was coming off already(cant do much deadening if it isnt stuck to the panel)





and dont mind the dynamat extreme. it was a temp fix till my good stuff got here. you can feel the difference in the two products. applied new in the same place oem had as well



also did trunk/rear quarters



and deck lid

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Old 08-25-2013, 01:25 PM
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Not sure how your mounting the amps but they also have the link plates for those style Memphis amps.

Can't wait to hear how this sounds!
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